Drill Press Plugs: What Plug Cutters Are & How to Use

Updated November 12, 2026

Yes, a drill press can absolutely be used with plug cutters—in fact, it is the ideal tool for the job. Plug cutters are specialized drill bits that cut a wooden dowel (or plug) from a piece of stock, and while they can be used in a hand drill, a drill press provides the stability, depth control, and perpendicular alignment that produce clean, uniform plugs. This article explains what plug cutters are, how they work with a drill press, how to choose the right one, and common pitfalls to avoid.

What Are Plug Cutters?

Plug cutters are hollow, cylindrical cutting tools with a sawtooth or continuous cutting edge on the bottom. They bore into wood and leave a cylindrical plug that remains attached to the base of the stock. The plug is then snapped off or cut free, leaving a piece of wood with the same grain orientation as the surrounding material. This is why plugs are used to hide screw holes, dowel joints, or defects—they blend in much better than a standard dowel, which has a different grain direction.

Plug cutters come in two main styles: those that cut a tapered plug and those that cut a straight plug. Tapered plugs are slightly conical and are often used for decorative purposes or for plugs that need to wedge into a hole. Straight plugs are cylindrical and are used for flush, hidden fastening. Most plug cutters are made of high-speed steel (HSS) or carbide-tipped, and they are available in common diameters like 1/4″, 3/8″, 1/2″, and 5/8″.

Why a Drill Press Is the Best Choice

Using a plug cutter in a drill press offers several advantages over a handheld drill:

Depth control: The depth stop on a drill press lets you cut plugs to a precise length, which is essential for consistent results.
Stability: The work is clamped to the table, and the quill moves straight down, preventing the cutter from wandering or wobbling.
Perpendicularity: The plug is cut at exactly 90° to the surface, which matters when the plug will be inserted into a hole drilled with the same press.
Safety: A drill press allows you to keep your hands away from the rotating cutter, reducing the risk of injury.

Hand drills can work for small plugs, but they are prone to tipping, which can produce oval or angled plugs. A drill press eliminates that variability.

How to Use a Plug Cutter in a Drill Press

Using a plug cutter is straightforward, but there are a few steps to follow for clean, safe results:

Select the right cutter: Choose a plug cutter that matches the diameter of the hole you need to fill. For a snug fit, the plug should be the same size or slightly larger than the hole.
Prepare the stock: Use a piece of wood that is thick enough to produce the plug length you need. The stock should be flat and free of knots or cracks.
Clamp the stock: Secure the wood to the drill press table with a clamp. Never hold it by hand—the cutter can grab and spin the stock.
Set the depth: Adjust the depth stop so the cutter goes into the wood deep enough to form a plug of the desired length, but not so deep that it cuts all the way through.
Drill at moderate speed: Run the drill press at a medium speed (around 1,000–2,000 RPM for most woods). Too fast can burn the wood; too slow can cause tearing.
Feed slowly: Lower the quill with steady, even pressure. Let the cutter do the work—do not force it.
Remove the plug: After cutting, lift the quill, remove the stock, and gently tap the plug out from the bottom with a punch or screwdriver.

If you need multiple plugs of the same length, set the depth stop once and repeat. For longer plugs, you can cut deeper, but be aware that the plug will remain attached at the bottom—you’ll need to snap it off after cutting.

Choosing the Right Plug Cutter

Several factors go into selecting a plug cutter:

Diameter: Match the cutter to the hole size. Standard sizes are 1/4″, 3/8″, 1/2″, 5/8″, and 3/4″.
Plug type: Tapered cutters are for decorative or wedge-fit plugs; straight cutters are for flush, hidden plugs.
Material: High-speed steel (HSS) is fine for softwoods and hardwoods. Carbide-tipped cutters last longer and are better for abrasive woods like oak.
Shank size: Most plug cutters have a 1/4″ or 3/8″ shank, which fits standard drill chucks. Check your drill press chuck capacity.
Flute design: Some cutters have spiral flutes that help eject sawdust, while others have straight flutes. Spiral flutes tend to produce cleaner cuts in deep holes.

If you are filling a hole that was drilled with a Forstner bit or a spade bit, use a plug cutter of the same diameter. For holes that are slightly oversized, you can use a larger cutter and sand the plug down.

Common Problems and How to Avoid Them

Even with a drill press, plug cutters can misbehave. Here are the most common issues and their fixes:

Burning the wood: This happens when the speed is too high or the feed is too slow. Reduce the RPM and increase the feed rate slightly.
Torn or ragged plugs: This often occurs when the stock is not flat or the cutter is dull. Use a sharp cutter and ensure the stock is flat and well-clamped.
Plug sticking in the cutter: Some cutters have a hole in the side to push the plug out. If yours doesn’t, stop the press and tap the cutter with a mallet to dislodge the plug.
Cutter wandering: If the cutter drifts off-center, it may be because the shank is not tight in the chuck, or the stock is not clamped. Always tighten the chuck and clamp the work.
Plug breaking off before full depth: This happens when the plug is too thin or the wood is brittle. Use a thicker stock or cut at a slower feed rate.

One common misconception is that plug cutters are the same as dowel drills. They are not: a dowel drill bores a hole, while a plug cutter cuts a plug from the outside of a piece of wood.

Plug Cutters vs. Dowel Centers vs. Forstner Bits

Plug cutters are often confused with other woodworking tools, so it helps to clarify the differences:

Plug cutter: Cuts a wooden plug from a piece of stock. Used to fill holes.
Dowel drill: A standard drill bit used to bore the hole that a dowel will go into.
Dowel center: A small metal marker used to transfer hole locations from one piece to another, not a cutting tool.
Forstner bit: Bores a flat-bottomed hole, but it does not produce a plug—it removes the wood entirely.

So, a plug cutter is the only tool that creates a plug to fill an existing hole. It is a unique and specialized bit.

Cost and Where to Buy

Plug cutters are inexpensive. A single high-speed steel cutter costs roughly $10–$20, and a set of five or six common sizes might run $30–$60. Carbide-tipped versions are more expensive, often $20–$40 each, but they last longer and cut cleaner in hardwoods. You can find them at most hardware stores, woodworking specialty shops, and online retailers. When buying a set, check that the sizes match the holes you typically drill—most sets include 1/4″, 3/8″, 1/2″, and 5/8″.

Safety Tips

Using a plug cutter is safe if you follow basic shop rules:

Always clamp the work. The cutter can grab and spin the stock, causing injury.
Wear safety glasses. Wood chips and broken plugs can fly.
Keep hands clear. Never reach under the cutter while it is spinning.
Use a push stick for small pieces. If the stock is small, clamp it or use a push stick to hold it down.
Disconnect power when changing cutters. Always unplug the drill press or lock the switch before swapping bits.

Also, be aware that the plug will be hot after cutting, especially in hardwoods. Let it cool before handling.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a plug cutter in a hand drill?

Yes, you can, but it is harder to keep the cutter perpendicular, and you have no depth stop. For occasional use, a hand drill works, but for clean, consistent plugs, a drill press is strongly recommended.

How do I get a plug out of the cutter if it gets stuck?

Many plug cutters have a small hole in the side. Insert a nail or punch into that hole and push the plug out from the top. If there is no hole, tap the cutter upside down on a hard surface, or use a screwdriver to pry the plug out from the bottom.

What is the best speed for cutting plugs?

A moderate speed of about 1,500 RPM works well for most woods. For hardwoods, drop to around 1,000 RPM; for softwoods, you can go up to 2,000 RPM. The key is to avoid burning—if you see smoke, slow down.

Can I make plugs from the same wood as my project?

Yes, that’s the whole point. Use a piece of scrap from the same board or a similar species so the grain and color match. This makes the plugs nearly invisible once sanded and finished.

Do I need to drill a pilot hole before using a plug cutter?

No, plug cutters are self-centering and do not require a pilot hole. They cut on the outside, leaving a plug in the center. However, the stock must be flat and clamped.

Why do my plugs come out tapered?

Some plug cutters are designed to cut a slight taper for a wedge fit. If you need straight plugs, look for a cutter labeled “straight” or “parallel.” Tapered plugs are fine for many applications, but they may not sit flush in a straight-sided hole.

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