Intarsia Scroll Sawing: Art, Tools & Technique

Updated November 11, 2026

Intarsia scroll sawing is the craft of cutting and fitting together differently colored and textured wood pieces to create a picture or design, with each piece shaped to fit its neighbors like a three-dimensional puzzle. Unlike a typical jigsaw puzzle, the pieces are not cut from a single board; instead, each is individually shaped, sanded, and often given depth so the finished work has a sculpted, painterly look. This article explains how intarsia works, what tools you need, how to choose patterns and wood, and how to avoid common mistakes.

What Is Intarsia? A Brief Background

Intarsia has roots in Italian Renaissance woodworking, where craftsmen made decorative panels for furniture and walls by inlaying thin wood veneers into a solid backing. The modern scroll-saw version is a distinct hobby that grew in the late 20th century, popularized by pattern makers and scroll-saw magazines. Today, intarsia is often called “wood painting with a saw” because the artist selects woods for their natural color and grain to create shading and detail, rather than using stains or dyes. The finished piece is typically mounted on a backing board or framed, and it can range from small ornaments to large wall hangings.

How Intarsia Differs from Other Scroll Saw Work

Many people confuse intarsia with fretwork, segmentation, or marquetry, but they are different crafts:

Fretwork – cutting intricate, often symmetrical patterns out of a single board, leaving open spaces. The result is a delicate, lace-like piece with no separate parts.
Segmentation – cutting a pattern into pieces and then reassembling them with small gaps, often using one type of wood. It is like making a wooden jigsaw puzzle, but the pieces are glued back together.
Marquetry – using thin veneers (wood slices) to create a flat picture, glued onto a surface. It is essentially wood inlay, not three-dimensional.
Intarsia – using thick wood (usually 3/4 inch) and shaping each piece individually, so the final work has real depth and contour. Pieces are shaped with sanders and grinders, then glued to a backing board.

The key difference is the three-dimensional aspect: intarsia pieces are sanded to different heights and curves, giving the artwork a carved, relief-like appearance.

Essential Tools and Materials

To start intarsia, you need a scroll saw, but the real work happens after cutting. Here are the core tools:

Scroll saw – any saw with a fine blade works; a variable-speed saw with a tilting table is helpful for angled cuts. Blades should be fine (size 2/0 to 5) for tight curves.
Sanding equipment – a spindle sander, belt sander, or hand files to shape each piece. Many intarsia artists use a bench grinder with a sanding disc for fast shaping.
Wood – choose woods with contrasting colors and interesting grain. Common choices: walnut (dark brown), oak (tan), maple (cream), cherry (reddish), padauk (orange-red), purpleheart (purple), and yellowheart (yellow).
Pattern and adhesive – patterns are printed on paper and glued to the wood with spray adhesive or a glue stick. You can also use carbon paper to trace.
Backing board – a piece of plywood or MDF to mount the finished pieces. Often the backing is covered with felt or a contrasting wood.
Finishing supplies – sandpaper (grits 120 to 400), a clear finish like polyurethane or Danish oil, and a soft cloth.

Step-by-Step Process: How Intarsia Is Made

Creating an intarsia piece follows a logical sequence. Here is a typical workflow:

Choose a pattern – patterns are available in books, magazines, and online. They are usually full-size and show which wood to use for each piece.
Transfer the pattern – copy the pattern onto the wood. For multiple pieces, use carbon paper or print the pattern on lightweight paper and glue it to the wood.
Cut each piece – cut out each piece with the scroll saw, following the lines. Leave a small margin if you plan to sand edges later.
Shape the pieces – this is the most creative step. Use sanders and grinders to round edges, create contours, and give depth. For example, a bird’s body might be sanded to a high dome, while the wing is left flatter.
Dry-fit the pieces – lay all pieces on a flat surface to check that they fit together without gaps. Adjust with sanding as needed.
Glue and mount – once satisfied, glue each piece to the backing board using wood glue. Apply even pressure and let dry.
Finish – sand the entire piece smooth, then apply a finish. A clear coat protects the wood and enhances color. Some artists use a matte finish for a natural look, others prefer gloss.

Choosing Wood for Color and Grain

Wood selection is the heart of intarsia. The natural color variations create the image, so you should choose woods that contrast well. For a realistic look, study the pattern’s color suggestions. For example, a sunflower might use yellowheart for petals, walnut for the center, and a light maple for the stem. Grain direction matters too: running the grain vertically on a tree trunk makes it look more natural. You can also use dyed woods or apply stains, but purists prefer natural colors. Exotic woods are popular for their vibrant hues, but they can be expensive. Domestic woods like walnut, cherry, and oak are affordable and beautiful.

Common Problems and How to Avoid Them

Beginners often face a few recurring issues:

Gaps between pieces – caused by inaccurate cutting or sanding. Solution: cut slightly outside the line and sand to fit, or use a pattern with a small gap allowance.
Tear-out on the back – the wood splinters as the blade exits. Use a sharp blade, place tape on the back, or cut with the good side down.
Pieces not fitting flat – often because the backing board is warped or the pieces are not sanded flat. Use a flat surface for dry-fitting and a thick, straight backing.
Color fading – some woods (purpleheart, padauk) fade with light exposure. Apply a UV-protective finish and keep the piece out of direct sunlight.
Pattern shifting – the paper moves while cutting. Use spray adhesive and let it dry thoroughly before cutting.

Costs, Safety, and Getting Started

The initial investment for intarsia is moderate. A decent scroll saw costs $100–$300, but you can start with a used one. Sanding tools add another $50–$150. Wood is a recurring cost; a small project might use $10–$20 of wood, while larger pieces with exotics can cost more. Patterns are often $5–$15 each. Total startup cost is roughly $200–$500, which is less than many woodworking hobbies.

Safety is critical – always wear safety glasses to protect against sawdust and flying debris. Use a dust mask or vacuum system, as wood dust can be harmful. Keep fingers away from the blade, and use a push stick for small pieces. When sanding, hold the wood firmly and avoid loose clothing. Also, be aware that some exotic woods have toxic dust – read safety data sheets and wear gloves if needed.

To start, pick a simple pattern with fewer pieces (like a fish or a leaf). Watch online tutorials, join a scroll-saw forum, and practice on inexpensive wood like pine. Intarsia is a skill that improves with patience; your first piece may have gaps, but the next will be better.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is intarsia the same as a jigsaw puzzle?
No, a jigsaw puzzle is cut from one board and has no depth. Intarsia pieces are individually shaped and sanded to create a three-dimensional relief, and they are glued to a backing.

Can I use a regular jigsaw instead of a scroll saw?
Technically yes, but a scroll saw’s fine blade and ability to make tight turns make it far easier. A jigsaw is too large for intricate cuts and may tear the wood.

What wood is best for beginners?
Start with softwoods like pine or poplar because they are cheap and easy to sand. However, they are light in color; you’ll need to add contrast with darker woods like walnut or use stains.

Do I need to finish the wood?
Yes, a finish protects the wood and brings out the color. Use a clear polyurethane, Danish oil, or a wax. Avoid finishes that yellow over time if you want to preserve light woods.

How long does an intarsia project take?
A small piece (e.g., a 8×10 ornament) might take 2–4 hours. A large wall hanging with 50 pieces can take 20–40 hours, depending on detail and your skill.

Can I make my own patterns?
Yes, you can convert any picture into an intarsia pattern by simplifying shapes and assigning wood colors. Software like Inkscape or even a photo editor can help, but it takes practice.

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