The best quilt blocks for upcycled denim are simple geometric blocks that showcase the fabric’s texture and weight, such as Log Cabin, Nine-Patch, and simple strip blocks. These blocks handle denim’s thickness and fraying well while allowing you to mix shades of blue and other upcycled fabrics for visual interest.
Why Denim Quilts Are Different
Denim is a sturdy cotton twill weave, typically made from cotton yarns dyed with indigo. Unlike quilting cottons, which are lightweight and have a tight, even weave, denim is heavier, stiffer, and often has a pronounced diagonal ribbing. These characteristics affect how it behaves in a quilt: it doesn’t fold as crisply, it’s harder to press, and it can put more strain on your sewing machine. Because of this, the best blocks for denim are those that don’t require precise ¼-inch seams or intricate piecing. Blocks with straight lines and large pieces are easier to manage and less likely to distort under the fabric’s weight.
Top Block Choices for Denim
- Log Cabin: This block is ideal because it’s built around a central square with strips added around it. The strips can be cut to any width, making it easy to use up random denim scraps. The block’s structure also allows you to alternate light and dark denim washes for a striking contrast.
- Nine-Patch: A simple grid of nine squares is a classic choice. It works well with denim because you can use larger squares (like 6-inch finished) to reduce the number of seams. Mix different shades of denim or add a contrasting fabric in some squares to create a pattern.
- Strip Piecing: Sew long strips of denim together, then cut them into segments and re-sew them to create a checkerboard or rail fence pattern. This is one of the fastest ways to use up many scraps and produces a modern, graphic look.
- Four-Patch: The simplest of all, just four squares sewn together. It’s a great starter block for a denim quilt, especially if you’re new to quilting with heavier fabrics.
- Improvisational (or “Crazy”) Blocks: These are free-form, wonky blocks where you sew pieces together without a set pattern. This approach is very forgiving and perfect for denim’s irregular edges and varying thicknesses.
How to Choose the Right Block
Consider the weight and condition of your denim. If you’re using old jeans with thick seams, zippers, and rivets, you’ll want to cut those out and stick to blocks with straight edges. If your denim is softer (like from a worn-in pair of jeans), you can attempt more complex blocks, but still avoid anything with tiny pieces or sharp angles. Also think about the quilt’s purpose. A denim quilt for picnics or outdoor use can be heavier and more durable, so larger blocks are fine. For a throw quilt meant for snuggling, you might want to mix denim with flannel or cotton to soften the overall feel, and choose blocks that allow for that mix, like a simple patchwork.
Preparing Denim for Quilting
Before you start cutting, wash and dry your denim to pre-shrink it and remove any dyes that might bleed. Denim can shrink significantly, and indigo dye can transfer onto other fabrics. After washing, press the fabric flat. Cut off the hems, seams, and any thick parts like the waistband. When cutting, use a rotary cutter and a self-healing mat; a sharp blade is essential because denim is tough on blades. If your denim is very thick, you may need to use a heavier needle (like a 90/14 or 100/16) and a stronger thread, such as a polyester or denim thread.
Common Problems and Solutions
One of the most common issues is the fabric’s bulk at seam intersections. To reduce bulk, you can trim the seam allowances down to ¼ inch after sewing. Another issue is that denim can be slippery and hard to keep flat. Using a walking foot or a even-feed foot on your machine helps prevent layers from shifting. If your machine struggles to sew through multiple layers of thick denim, try using a longer stitch length (like 3.0 to 3.5) and go slowly. Also, be aware that denim can stretch along the bias, so handle pieces carefully and avoid pulling them while sewing.
Cost and Time Considerations
Upcycled denim is essentially free if you have old jeans, but the time investment is real. Cutting denim is more laborious than cutting cotton, and the sewing is slower. If you’re buying denim from a thrift store, the cost is still low compared to new quilting cotton. However, you may need to invest in a new rotary blade and a heavier needle. The time to complete a denim quilt can be double that of a cotton quilt of the same size, mainly due to the fabric’s weight and the need to handle bulk. A simple lap quilt (about 50×60 inches) made with large blocks could take a weekend to cut and sew, but a full bed quilt could take several weeks.
Alternatives to Traditional Blocks
If you want to move beyond the classic blocks, consider these alternatives:
- Whole-cloth quilt: Use a single large piece of denim as the top, and add quilting stitches in a decorative pattern. This is the simplest approach and highlights the fabric’s natural texture.
- Stained glass style: Cut denim into small squares or rectangles and sew them together with narrow sashing of a contrasting fabric (like a bright color) to mimic the look of stained glass.
- Yo-yos: These are gathered circles of fabric that are sewn together at the edges. They are a great way to use small denim scraps, and they create a soft, textured quilt top that doesn’t require batting.
- Bargello: This is a more advanced technique that uses strips sewn together and then cut at varying widths to create a wavy, optical illusion pattern. It works with denim because the strips are straight and the seams are simple, but it requires careful planning.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use the seams of old jeans in a quilt? Yes, but it’s best to avoid them because they are very thick and can make the quilt lumpy. If you want to use them, open the seams and press them flat, but be prepared for extra bulk. Many quilters cut them off and use only the flat fabric.
Do I need to use batting with a denim quilt? It depends on the weight. If your denim is heavy, you might not need batting, as the quilt will already be warm and thick. If you’re using lighter denim or mixing with cotton, batting will add warmth and a traditional quilt feel. For a summer quilt, skip the batting.
How do I prevent indigo dye from bleeding onto other fabrics? Wash the denim several times with a color-catcher sheet before you cut it. You can also soak the denim in a solution of water and white vinegar (about 1 cup vinegar per gallon of water) for 30 minutes, then rinse and wash. This helps set the dye.
What is the best seam allowance for denim? A standard ¼-inch seam allowance is fine, but because denim can fray, you may want to use a slightly larger allowance (like ⅜ inch) and then trim it down after sewing. This gives you more room to adjust if the edges fray during handling.
Can I mix denim with other fabrics in the same block? Yes, and it’s a great way to soften the overall feel. Flannel, cotton, and even corduroy can be mixed with denim. Just be aware that different weights can cause the block to pucker, so use a consistent seam allowance and press carefully.
How should I quilt a denim quilt? Because denim is heavy, hand quilting can be difficult. Machine quilting with a walking foot is easier. You can quilt in straight lines along the seams, or do a simple crosshatch pattern. If you’re sending it to a longarm quilter, let them know it’s denim, as they may need to adjust their machine settings.
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