This nine patch potholder is a perfect weekend project for using up fabric scraps, worn-out jeans, or even an old tablecloth. It’s a classic quilt block that becomes a practical, heat-resistant kitchen tool. You’ll learn to piece, layer, and bind—all while keeping materials out of the landfill. Before you start, press all your fabric flat and make sure it’s clean. If you’re using old clothing, cut away seams and hems first.
What You’ll Need
- Fabric scraps: at least 5 different pieces, each about 5 inches square (or larger) for the nine patch top. You can use one color family or a mix.
- Backing fabric: a piece at least 8.5 x 8.5 inches (can be an old pillowcase or shirt).
- Insulating layer: two layers of cotton batting, or one layer of cotton plus one layer of old wool felt (not acrylic). Avoid polyester batting—it melts. You can also use a folded old cotton towel, but it may be too thick.
- Binding fabric: a strip 2.5 inches wide and about 32 inches long (can be cut from an old shirt or fabric scrap).
- Thread, sewing machine (or needle if hand-sewing), pins or clips, scissors or rotary cutter and mat, ruler, iron and ironing board.
- Optional: a hanging loop made from ribbon or fabric scrap.
Step-by-Step
- Cut your nine patch squares. For a finished potholder about 8 inches square, each of the nine squares should be 3 inches square before sewing (they will finish at 2.5 inches each). Cut nine squares from your various fabrics. You can use five of one color and four of another, or all different.
- Lay out the nine squares in a 3×3 grid. The traditional nine patch has alternating light and dark squares, but feel free to arrange them however you like. Step back and check the balance of colors and values.
- Sew the rows. With right sides together, sew the three squares in each row together with a 1/4-inch seam allowance. Press the seams in alternating directions: row 1 to the left, row 2 to the right, row 3 to the left. This helps the seams nest later.
- Join the rows. Place row 1 and row 2 right sides together, matching the seams. Pin at each intersection to keep the seams aligned. Sew with a 1/4-inch seam. Repeat to attach row 3. Press the seams open or to one side.
- Check the size. Your nine patch top should now be about 8 inches square (if you started with 3-inch squares). If it’s slightly off, trim it to a perfect square, but don’t cut off more than 1/8 inch.
- Prepare the backing and batting. Cut the backing fabric to the same size as the top (about 8.5 inches square to allow for trimming later). Cut two layers of cotton batting to the same size. If using a towel, cut it to size as well.
- Layer the potholder. Place the backing fabric right side down on the table. Place the two layers of batting on top. Then place your nine patch top right side up on top of the batting. Make sure the layers are aligned and smooth. Pin or clip the layers together.
- Quilt the layers. To keep the layers from shifting, sew through all layers. You can quilt in the ditch (sew along the seams of the nine patch) or sew a simple grid of straight lines across the potholder. Start from the center and work outward. This also adds a nice texture.
- Trim the edges. Once quilting is done, trim the potholder to a perfect square, cutting through all layers evenly. A rotary cutter and ruler work best here.
- Make the binding. If you want a hanging loop, fold a 4-inch piece of ribbon or fabric in half and pin it to one corner of the potholder, with the loop pointing inward (toward the center). The raw edges should align with the potholder edge.
- Attach the binding. With right sides together, sew the binding strip to the potholder using a 1/4-inch seam. Start in the middle of one side, leaving a 6-inch tail. When you reach a corner, stop 1/4 inch from the edge, turn, and fold the binding up to create a miter. Continue around all four sides. When you get back to the start, overlap the ends and sew them together, then finish sewing the binding to the potholder.
- Fold the binding to the back. Press the binding away from the potholder, then fold it over to the back side. Hand-stitch the binding down using a blind stitch, or use a machine stitch if you prefer. Make sure the corners are neatly mitered.
- Press and finish. Give the potholder a final press. If you added a hanging loop, make sure it’s free on the back. Your potholder is ready to use!
Common Mistakes
- Using polyester batting or fabric. Polyester melts under high heat, which can ruin your potholder and potentially cause burns. Stick to cotton, wool, or a thick cotton towel.
- Seams not matching. If your seams don’t line up, the nine patch will look wonky. Always pin at the intersections and press seams in alternating directions.
- Not trimming to a perfect square. If you skip trimming, your binding will be uneven and the potholder won’t lie flat. Take the time to trim.
- Binding too tight. If you pull the binding too tightly when sewing, the potholder will pucker. Let the binding feed naturally.
Tips
- Use old jeans for the backing—denim is thick and adds extra insulation.
- For a more heat-resistant potholder, use a layer of cotton batting plus a layer of wool felt (not acrylic). Wool is naturally flame-resistant.
- If you’re new to quilting, practice on scrap fabric first to get your 1/4-inch seam consistent.
- Use a walking foot if your machine has one—it helps feed the thick layers evenly.
- Make a set of four and give them as gifts. They’re quick once you get the hang of it.
Troubleshooting
- My potholder is not square. This usually happens because seams were not exactly 1/4 inch. Measure your seams and adjust. You can also trim the potholder to a smaller square if needed, but don’t cut into the seam allowances.
- The binding is too short. If you run out of binding, you can piece two strips together with a diagonal seam. Or, if you’re short by more than a few inches, it’s better to start over with a longer strip.
- The layers are shifting. This often happens if you didn’t pin enough. Use more pins or clips, and consider basting the layers with a long running stitch before quilting.
- My seams are bulky. Press seams open in the nine patch block to reduce bulk, especially where four seams meet. You can also trim the seam allowances to 1/8 inch at those intersections.
- The potholder is too thin. Add an extra layer of cotton batting or use a thicker towel. Remember, you need at least two layers of cotton batting for adequate heat protection.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use old towels as the insulating layer?
Yes, a folded old cotton towel works well, but it may be too thick for some sewing machines. If you have trouble, use one layer of towel plus one layer of cotton batting.
What if I don’t have a sewing machine?
You can sew the entire potholder by hand. Use a small running stitch for seams and a whip stitch for binding. It will take longer but is doable.
How do I wash a potholder?
Machine wash in cold water and tumble dry low. Avoid high heat to prevent shrinking. If you used wool, hand washing is safer.
Can I use a nine patch potholder for hot pots from the oven?
Yes, as long as you have enough insulation (two layers of cotton batting or equivalent). Test by placing a hot pan on a folded towel—if you feel heat, add more layers.
What is the best way to make the hanging loop?
Use a 4-inch piece of ribbon or fabric, fold it in half, and pin it to the corner before attaching the binding. The loop will be sewn into the binding seam.
How many potholders can I make from a single old shirt?
Depending on the shirt size, you can typically make one to two potholders. The front and back of a large shirt can yield enough fabric for one potholder each.
Related
- Best Hikes in the Poconos: Top Trails Ranked
- Desiccant vs Compressor: Which Dehumidifier?
- Prettiest Downtown Strips in Minnesota
How pages are sourced and corrected: Sources and editorial policy.