Fab Fabrics repurposed denim is denim fabric that has been reclaimed from used clothing or manufacturing waste and processed into new textile material, rather than being woven from virgin cotton. This process gives old jeans a second life as fresh fabric, which is then used to make new garments, bags, upholstery, and accessories. It is a core part of the circular fashion movement, aimed at reducing the enormous environmental footprint of denim production.
Background: Why Repurposed Denim Exists
Conventional denim production is resource-intensive. Growing conventional cotton requires significant water and pesticides, and the dyeing and finishing processes use large amounts of chemicals and water. The fashion industry as a whole is a major polluter, and denim is one of its most popular and durable products, which paradoxically makes it a prime candidate for reuse.
Repurposed denim addresses two problems: textile waste and resource depletion. In the United States alone, millions of tons of textile waste go to landfills each year, and denim makes up a notable portion of that. By reclaiming denim from discarded jeans, jackets, and manufacturing offcuts, companies can avoid the need for new cotton, new dye, and much of the water and energy used in virgin production.
How Repurposed Denim Is Made
The process of turning old denim into new fabric varies by manufacturer, but the general steps are consistent:
- Collection and sorting: Used denim is collected from donation centers, take-back programs, or textile recycling facilities. Items are sorted by color, condition, and fiber content.
- Cleaning and deconstruction: Hardware like zippers, buttons, and rivets are removed. The fabric is then cleaned and sometimes shredded into fibers.
- Fiber regeneration: The shredded denim is broken down into a fibrous pulp. This can be done mechanically (grinding) or chemically (dissolving and re-extruding cellulose). Mechanical recycling is more common but shortens fiber length, so it is often blended with virgin fibers or other recycled fibers for strength.
- Spinning and weaving: The recycled fibers are spun into yarn and then woven into denim fabric. The resulting fabric may have a slightly different texture or appearance compared to virgin denim, often with a slightly softer hand or a more “vintage” look.
- Finishing: The new fabric can be dyed, washed, or treated to achieve the desired color and feel.
Some companies use a closed-loop chemical process, like the one developed by Evrnu, which dissolves cotton and re-extrudes it into new fibers, preserving more of the original fiber quality. However, this technology is not yet widespread.
How to Choose Repurposed Denim
When shopping for repurposed denim, look for clear labeling. Terms like “recycled cotton,” “upcycled denim,” or “regenerated denim” are common, but they are not always regulated. Here are some factors to consider:
- Percentage of recycled content: Some fabrics are 100% recycled, while others blend recycled fibers with virgin or other recycled fibers (like polyester or elastane) for durability and stretch. Check the label.
- Certifications: Look for third-party certifications like Global Recycled Standard (GRS) or Recycled Claim Standard (RCS), which verify the recycled content and the traceability of the supply chain.
- Fabric weight and feel: Repurposed denim can range from light (8 oz) to heavy (14 oz). Heavier weights are more durable but less flexible. Feel the fabric if possible—some recycled denim is softer due to the shorter fibers.
- Brand transparency: Reputable brands will explain their sourcing and recycling process on their website or product tags. If a brand is vague, ask.
Common Problems and Misconceptions
One common misconception is that repurposed denim is exactly the same as virgin denim. In reality, mechanical recycling shortens the cotton fibers, which can reduce tensile strength and increase pilling. To compensate, manufacturers often blend recycled fibers with longer virgin fibers or synthetic fibers. This means that 100% recycled denim may be less durable than a comparable virgin denim, although it is still perfectly functional for many uses.
Another issue is color inconsistency. Because denim is dyed with indigo, which bonds to the surface of the fiber, recycling can result in uneven color. Manufacturers often re-dye or blend different shades to achieve a uniform appearance, but some brands intentionally embrace the variation for a unique, mottled look.
There is also the problem of contamination. If the original denim contains elastane (spandex) for stretch, that synthetic fiber must be separated or it will compromise the recycling process. Some recycling facilities are not equipped to handle blended fabrics, so they may reject stretch denim.
Comparison: Repurposed vs. Organic vs. Virgin Denim
To understand where repurposed denim fits, it helps to compare it with other types:
- Virgin denim: Made from newly grown cotton. It has the highest resource footprint (water, land, pesticides) but offers consistent quality and durability.
- Organic denim: Made from cotton grown without synthetic pesticides or fertilizers. It reduces chemical pollution but still uses significant water and land.
- Repurposed denim: Uses existing cotton, avoiding new agricultural production. It saves water and reduces waste, but may require blending with virgin fibers for strength.
In terms of environmental impact, repurposed denim generally has a lower carbon and water footprint than virgin denim, even when blended with some virgin fibers. However, the recycling process itself uses energy and water, and the resulting fabric may not last as long, which could offset some benefits if the garment is not worn for many years.
Cost and Availability
Repurposed denim is often priced slightly higher than conventional denim, partly because the collection, sorting, and processing are labor-intensive and not yet fully scaled. However, prices have been coming down as more brands adopt the practice. You can find repurposed denim in a range of products:
- Jeans and jackets from brands like Levi’s (their “SecondHand” line and some “WellThread” collections), Patagonia, and Everlane.
- Bags and accessories from companies like Freitag, which uses recycled truck tarpaulins and denim.
- Upholstery and home decor from textile companies like Fab Fabrics, which offers a line of repurposed denim upholstery fabric.
Availability is growing, but it is still not as ubiquitous as virgin denim. Online marketplaces and specialty fabric stores are the best places to find it.
Safety and Care
Repurposed denim is safe to wear and use. However, there are a few care considerations:
- Washing: Wash in cold water to preserve color and reduce energy use. Avoid bleach, which can weaken recycled fibers.
- Drying: Air dry if possible. High heat can cause shrinkage and further weaken the shorter fibers.
- Chemicals: Some recycled fabrics may have residual dyes or finishes from their previous life, but reputable manufacturers ensure they are cleaned and tested for harmful substances. Look for OEKO-TEX or similar certifications if you are sensitive.
- Durability: Because recycled fibers are shorter, the fabric may pill or wear faster than virgin denim. Choose heavier weights for high-wear items like jeans, and lighter weights for decorative items like pillows.
Alternatives to Repurposed Denim
If repurposed denim is not what you are looking for, there are other sustainable fabric options:
- Hemp denim: Hemp is a fast-growing, low-water crop that produces strong fibers. It can be blended with cotton or used alone.
- Tencel (Lyocell): Made from wood pulp in a closed-loop process, Tencel is soft, breathable, and biodegradable.
- Recycled polyester: Made from plastic bottles, but it sheds microplastics when washed.
- Upcycled vintage denim: Instead of shredding and reweaving, some brands simply repair and resell old jeans. This uses even less energy than recycling.
Each alternative has its own trade-offs, so the best choice depends on your priorities—whether that is water use, durability, or biodegradability.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is repurposed denim the same as recycled denim?
Yes, the terms are often used interchangeably. “Repurposed” generally implies that the material is being used for a different purpose than its original one, while “recycled” is a broader term. In practice, both refer to denim that has been reclaimed from old garments or manufacturing waste and processed into new fabric.
Does repurposed denim shrink like regular denim?
Yes, it can shrink, especially if it contains cotton. The shrinkage rate depends on the blend and the finishing process. To minimize shrinkage, wash in cold water and air dry. Some brands pre-shrink their fabric, but it is always best to follow the care label.
Is repurposed denim less durable?
It can be, but not necessarily. Mechanical recycling shortens the cotton fibers, which can reduce tensile strength. However, manufacturers often blend recycled fibers with longer virgin or synthetic fibers to maintain durability. A well-made pair of jeans from repurposed denim can last just as long as a conventional pair if cared for properly.
How can I tell if a brand is genuinely using repurposed denim?
Look for specific claims on the label, such as “100% recycled cotton” or “contains X% post-consumer recycled denim.” Check for third-party certifications like GRS or RCS. If the brand does not provide clear information, contact them directly. Greenwashing is common, so transparency is key.
Can repurposed denim be recycled again?
Yes, but with limitations. Each time cotton is mechanically recycled, the fibers get shorter and weaker. After one or two cycles, the fibers become too short to spin into yarn without blending with virgin fibers. Eventually, the material may be downcycled into insulation or padding, rather than new fabric.
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