Edge Jointing Planer: What It Is and How to Use One

Updated November 13, 2026

An edge jointing planer is a woodworking tool used to straighten and square the long edge of a board, creating a flat, smooth surface that can be glued edge-to-edge with other boards to form a wider panel. It is essentially a jointer, and the term “edge jointing” refers to the specific operation of flattening a board’s edge, which is a fundamental step in preparing lumber for projects like tabletops, cabinet doors, and panels.

Background: The Role of the Jointer in Woodworking

Before the advent of power tools, woodworkers used hand planes to true the edges of boards. The process was laborious and required considerable skill. The power jointer, introduced in the early 20th century, mechanized this task. A jointer consists of a flat infeed table, a rotating cutterhead with knives, and a flat outfeed table. The infeed table is set slightly lower than the outfeed table; the difference determines the depth of cut. As a board is pushed across the cutterhead, the knives remove material from the low spots until the entire edge is flat. This is the same principle used in edge jointing planers, which are sometimes called “jointer-planers” or simply “jointers.” The term “planer” is often used interchangeably, but strictly speaking, a thickness planer is a different machine that makes a board’s faces parallel, not its edges straight.

How Edge Jointing Works

Edge jointing is a straightforward operation, but it requires attention to technique. The goal is to produce a straight, square edge that will mate perfectly with another board’s edge for gluing. Here is the basic process:

Set the depth of cut: Adjust the infeed table so that it is lower than the outfeed table by about 1/16 inch (1.5 mm) for a typical pass. Shallower cuts are better for final passes.
Check the fence: The fence must be set at 90 degrees to the table. Use a square to verify this. A slight tilt can be intentional (for beveled edges), but for edge jointing, 90 degrees is standard.
Position the board: Place the board on the infeed table with the edge to be jointed facing up, and the face against the fence.
Push the board: Apply downward pressure on the infeed side, and push the board forward. As the board passes over the cutterhead, maintain even pressure. The outfeed side should be supported by the outfeed table.
Repeat as needed: Take multiple passes, each time lowering the infeed table slightly, until the entire edge is straight and square.

For long boards, it is helpful to have an auxiliary support at the infeed and outfeed ends to prevent the board from tipping. Some jointers have built-in extension tables, but a simple roller stand can work.

Choosing an Edge Jointing Planer

When selecting a jointer, consider the following factors:

Bed length: The length of the tables determines how long a board you can joint accurately. A longer bed (e.g., 6 feet or more) is better for long boards, as it provides more support and reduces the chance of a bowed edge.
Cutterhead width: The width of the cutterhead determines the maximum width of board you can edge joint. Common sizes are 6 inches and 8 inches. For most hobbyists, a 6-inch jointer is sufficient; for wider panels, an 8-inch or larger is needed.
Cutterhead type: Traditional straight knives are common and affordable. Spiral or helical cutterheads have multiple small carbide inserts that rotate, producing a quieter cut and a better finish, but they are more expensive.
Motor power: A more powerful motor (e.g., 1.5 HP or more) can handle harder woods and deeper cuts without bogging down.
Dust collection: A jointer produces a lot of shavings. A 4-inch dust port is standard; connecting it to a dust collector is highly recommended.

For occasional use, a benchtop jointer (often 6 inches wide) is a space-saving option. For serious woodworking, a floor-standing model (8 inches or wider) offers more stability and capacity.

Common Problems and Misconceptions

One common misconception is that a jointer can make a board thinner. It can, but that is not its primary purpose. A thickness planer is used for thicknessing. Another issue is “snipe,” which is a slight dip at the beginning or end of a board caused by the board tipping as it enters or exits the cutterhead. This is more common on planers, but can occur on jointers if the outfeed table is not properly adjusted. To avoid snipe, keep the board pressed firmly down on the outfeed table once it starts exiting, and use a push block. Another problem is a “concave” edge, which happens when the board is not held firmly against the fence, or when the fence is not square. This results in a board that is narrower in the middle than at the ends.

Comparison: Jointer vs. Planer vs. Router

It is essential to distinguish a jointer from a planer. A thickness planer makes the two faces of a board parallel to each other, but it does not make an edge straight. A jointer makes one face or one edge flat, but it does not guarantee that the opposite face or edge is parallel. In practice, woodworkers use both: first, joint one face flat, then plane the opposite face parallel, then joint one edge square, and finally rip the other edge parallel on a table saw. A router with a straight bit and a straightedge guide can also be used to edge joint, but it is slower and less precise for long boards. For small pieces, a hand plane is a viable alternative.

Safety Considerations

Jointers are powerful machines with exposed rotating cutters. Always follow these safety rules:

Never joint a board that is shorter than 12 inches without a push block or push stick.
Always use push blocks or push pads to keep your hands away from the cutterhead.
Wear safety glasses and hearing protection.
Do not wear loose clothing or gloves that could get caught.
Ensure the cutterhead guard is in place and functioning.
Disconnect power before changing knives or adjusting the cutterhead.
Keep the area around the machine clear of debris.

Kickback is a risk if the board is not fed properly; always feed against the rotation of the cutterhead (i.e., from infeed to outfeed). A board that is not flat on the table can be dangerous, so always inspect the board for warps or twists before feeding.

Costs and Alternatives

Benchtop jointers can be purchased for around $200-$400. Floor-standing models range from $500 to over $1,500. Spiral cutterheads add a few hundred dollars to the price. If you do not want to invest in a jointer, alternatives include:

Using a hand plane (e.g., a No. 7 jointer plane) to edge joint.
Using a table saw with a jointing jig (a sled that holds the board against a straight edge).
Having a local lumberyard or millwork shop joint the edges for you.
Using a router table with a straight bit and a fence.

Each alternative has trade-offs in cost, time, and precision. For occasional projects, a hand plane or a table saw jig might be sufficient. For frequent woodworking, a dedicated jointer is a worthwhile investment.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a thickness planer to edge joint?

No. A thickness planer only flattens the face of a board parallel to the opposite face. It does not straighten the edge. You would need a jointer or a hand plane to achieve a straight edge.

What is the difference between a jointer and a planer?

A jointer flattens one face or edge of a board, making it flat and straight. A planer makes the opposite face parallel to the already-flattened face, but it does not make edges straight. They are complementary machines.

How do I fix snipe on a jointer?

Snipe on a jointer is usually caused by the outfeed table being set too high or too low. The outfeed table must be exactly level with the cutterhead’s highest point. Also, maintain downward pressure on the board as it passes over the cutterhead, especially at the beginning and end.

Can I edge joint a board that is wider than the jointer?

No. The board must be narrower than the cutterhead width. If the board is wider, you will not be able to joint the entire edge in one pass. You could use a hand plane or a router for wider boards.

What is a spiral cutterhead and is it worth the extra cost?

A spiral cutterhead has multiple small carbide inserts that rotate into the cut, rather than a straight knife. It produces a smoother finish, is quieter, and the inserts can be rotated to a fresh edge when dull. It is more expensive, but many woodworkers find it worth the cost for the improved finish and reduced noise.

How pages are sourced and corrected: Sources and editorial policy.