Adjustable Joiner Outfeed Tables: How They Work

Updated November 13, 2026

An adjustable joiner outfeed table is a height-adjustable support surface placed behind a jointer’s outfeed table to catch long workpieces as they exit the machine, preventing them from dropping or tipping. It is not a standard factory component on most jointers, but rather an aftermarket accessory or shop-built addition that significantly improves safety and accuracy when jointing boards longer than the machine’s own tables.

Why a Jointer Needs an Outfeed Table

A jointer’s infeed and outfeed tables are typically only 30 to 40 inches long each, even on larger floor models. When you joint a board that is longer than the combined table length, the workpiece extends past the outfeed end before the cut is complete. Without support, the board’s weight pulls it downward, causing the trailing end to drop. This changes the angle of the board against the cutterhead, producing a slight curve or snipe at the end of the cut. It also creates a dangerous situation where the board can kick back or bind. An outfeed table solves this by supporting the board at the same height as the jointer’s outfeed table, keeping the workpiece level throughout the entire pass.

How an Adjustable Outfeed Table Works

The core function of an adjustable outfeed table is to match the exact height of the jointer’s outfeed table. The outfeed table on a jointer is fixed at the same height as the cutterhead’s highest point (the top dead center of the knives). The infeed table is lowered to set the depth of cut. Therefore, the outfeed table’s top surface is the reference plane for the finished surface. An adjustable outfeed table uses a mechanism—typically a screw jack, a crank, or a set of locking bolts—to raise or lower its top surface to align perfectly with the jointer’s outfeed table. Once set, it is locked in place. Some designs use a single central support leg with a telescoping column, while others use two or four corner posts with independent adjustment. The most accurate designs allow fine adjustments in thousandths of an inch, because even a 1/32-inch mismatch can cause snipe or a slight bow in the finished board.

Types of Adjustable Outfeed Tables

Stand-alone portable units: These are rolling tables with a crank or foot pedal that adjusts the height. They are often used with multiple machines, not just a jointer, and can be moved around the shop.
Bolt-on extensions: These attach directly to the jointer’s outfeed end using brackets. They are compact and always in the right position, but they add weight to the machine and may not be adjustable over a wide range.
Shop-built designs: Many woodworkers build their own outfeed tables from plywood and a scissor lift or a screw jack mechanism. These can be customized to the exact dimensions of the jointer and the shop space.
Roller stands with adjustment: A simple roller stand is a less expensive alternative, but it only supports the board at a single point, not along a flat surface. This can still cause the board to dip between the jointer table and the roller, so it is less accurate than a full table.

How to Choose the Right One

When selecting an adjustable outfeed table for a jointer, consider these factors:

Height range: Measure the height of your jointer’s outfeed table from the floor. The outfeed table must be able to reach that height. Most jointers have tables at 32 to 36 inches, but benchtop models can be lower.
Load capacity: The table must support the weight of the longest board you will joint. A heavy 8-foot-long, 2-inch-thick hardwood board can weigh over 50 pounds. The table and its locking mechanism must not flex or sag under that load.
Surface size: The table surface should be at least as wide as the jointer’s outfeed table, and ideally longer (24 to 30 inches) to provide a stable landing zone. A surface that is too small defeats the purpose.
Adjustment precision: Look for a mechanism that allows fine adjustment. A coarse thread or a notched pin will not allow you to match the outfeed table height precisely.
Locking mechanism: Once set, the table must lock firmly. A table that drifts down during use is worse than no table at all.

Setting Up and Aligning the Table

Proper alignment is critical. Here is a step-by-step method used by most woodworkers:

Place a straightedge (like a long level or a known-straight board) across the jointer’s outfeed table and the adjustable outfeed table.
Loosen the locking mechanism on the adjustable table.
Raise or lower the table until the straightedge lies perfectly flat on both surfaces with no gap and no rocking.
Lock the table in place.
Re-check with the straightedge after locking, because some locks shift the table slightly.
Test with a scrap board that is longer than the jointer tables. Joint it and check for snipe or a curved end. If the end is slightly lower, the outfeed table is too low; if it is higher, the table is too high.

Common Problems and Misconceptions

A frequent misconception is that the outfeed table must be set exactly level with the jointer’s outfeed table. While that is the goal, a tiny difference—less than 1/64 inch—is usually acceptable, but it must not be higher than the outfeed table. If the outfeed table is even slightly high, the board will ride up onto it, causing the trailing end to be cut thinner (a reverse snipe). If it is too low, the board will drop, causing a deeper cut at the end. Another common problem is using a table that is not wide enough. If the board overhangs the side of the outfeed table, it can still tip, especially on narrow boards. Also, many users forget to adjust the outfeed table when they change the height of the jointer itself (e.g., if the jointer is on a mobile base that has leveling feet). Always re-check alignment after moving the machine.

Costs and Alternatives

Commercial adjustable outfeed tables range from roughly $100 for a basic roller stand to $500 or more for a heavy-duty crank-adjustable table with a large surface. A shop-built version can cost as little as $30 in materials if you have scrap plywood and a simple screw jack. Alternatives to a dedicated outfeed table include:

Roller stands: Inexpensive but less accurate; best for very light work.
Infinity tables (also called extension tables): These are long, flat tables that attach to the outfeed side, but they are not adjustable; they are set to the correct height once and then fixed.
Using a helper: A second person can support the board, but this is tiring and less consistent than a mechanical support.
Jointing shorter boards: If you only joint boards shorter than the jointer’s tables, you do not need an outfeed table at all.

Safety Considerations

An outfeed table is a safety device, but it introduces its own risks. The table must be stable and not tip over if a board is pushed against it forcefully. If the table has wheels, lock them before use. Never place your hand on the outfeed table while the jointer is running; keep hands on the board, and use push blocks for short boards. Also, ensure the outfeed table does not interfere with the jointer’s dust collection hood or the cutterhead guard. Finally, always joint with the grain, and never joint boards shorter than 12 inches, even with an outfeed table, because they can become unstable.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I really need an adjustable outfeed table for my jointer?

If you joint boards longer than about 4 feet, yes. Without support, the board will dip at the end, causing snipe and a potentially dangerous kickback. Even a simple roller stand is better than nothing, but a flat adjustable table gives the best results.

Can I use the same outfeed table for my table saw and jointer?

Yes, if the table has a wide height range and is portable. Many woodworkers use a single adjustable outfeed table for multiple machines, but you must reset the height each time you move it. A bolt-on extension is machine-specific and cannot be shared.

What is the difference between an outfeed table and an infeed table?

On a jointer, the infeed table is lower than the outfeed table; the difference is the depth of cut. The outfeed table is at the same height as the cutterhead. An outfeed support table matches the outfeed table’s height, not the infeed table’s height.

How do I know if my outfeed table is too high or too low?

Joint a test board and look at the end of the cut. If the last 1-2 inches of the board are thinner (a dip), the outfeed table is too low. If the last inch is thicker (a hump), the outfeed table is too high. Adjust in small increments and re-test.

Can I build my own adjustable outfeed table?

Yes, it is a common weekend project. You need a flat top (plywood or MDF), a height-adjustment mechanism (a scissor jack, a screw jack, or a threaded rod), and a sturdy base. The key is to make the adjustment fine enough and to lock it securely.

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