The correct sequence is ripping, then jointing, then planing. You start by cutting the board to rough width and length, then flatten one face and one edge with the jointer, and finally bring the board to its final thickness and smoothness with the planer.
Why This Order Works
Each machine in the sequence prepares the wood for the next step. Ripping first lets you break down large stock into manageable pieces before you commit to flattening. Jointing creates a true reference face and edge, which the planer then uses to make the opposite face parallel. If you planed before jointing, you would just be making a twisted board thinner, not flatter.
Step 1: Ripping to Rough Size
Ripping is cutting with the grain to reduce width. Do this first because it removes the most material and can reveal internal defects like knots, cracks, or discoloration that you might want to avoid. Cut the board slightly oversized—typically 1/4 to 1/2 inch wider and longer than the final dimension—to leave room for jointing and planing. A table saw or circular saw is the usual tool. For very long boards, a track saw or a straightedge guide gives a cleaner cut than a freehand circular saw.
Step 2: Jointing One Face and One Edge
The jointer flattens a face and squares an edge. Start with the face that will be the show side or the side you will reference later. Push the board across the cutterhead with the cupped side down, so the cutter removes the high spots. Then joint one edge 90 degrees to that face. This creates a true corner that you can use to register the board against a fence or a table saw miter gauge. If the board is badly warped, you may need to take several light passes, lowering the cutterhead slightly each time until the face is flat.
Step 3: Planing to Final Thickness
The thickness planer makes the second face parallel to the jointed face and brings the board to final thickness. Feed the board with the jointed face down, so the planer’s pressure rollers press against that flat reference. Take light passes—usually 1/32 to 1/16 inch per pass—to avoid tear-out and to keep the board from flexing. After planing, you can joint the second edge if needed, or rip the board to final width on the table saw using the jointed edge against the fence.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
- Planing before jointing: A twisted board will come out of the planer still twisted, just thinner. Always joint a face first.
- Jointing both faces: The jointer creates a flat face but not a parallel one. Only the planer can make the second face parallel. Jointing both faces will leave you with a board that is thinner in the middle.
- Ripping too close to final size: If you rip to exact width before jointing, you will have no material left to remove the saw marks or to correct a slightly crooked cut.
- Skipping the jointer on the edge: A rough sawn edge will not ride against the table saw fence reliably. Joint one edge square to the face before ripping to width.
When to Skip or Reorder
Not every project needs all three steps. If you buy S4S (surfaced four sides) lumber from a home center, it is already flat and parallel, so you can go straight to cutting to size. If you are using a hand plane, the order is the same: flatten a face, then an edge, then thickness the board. For very thin stock, you might joint and plane first, then rip to width, because the planer can handle a wide board more safely than a thin strip. For long boards that won’t fit through your jointer, you can use a planer sled—a flat carrier board with shims—to flatten one face without a jointer.
Tools and Setup Tips
Sharp blades are essential. Dull jointer or planer knives burn the wood and leave a rough surface. Check the outfeed table on the jointer is exactly level with the cutterhead at top dead center; if it is too high or low, you will get a snipe or a dip. On the planer, make sure the feed rollers are clean and the bed is free of sawdust. Always feed with the grain when possible to reduce tear-out. For figured wood, you may need to use a slower feed rate or take very thin passes.
Safety Notes
Wear hearing protection and safety glasses. Never joint or plane a board shorter than 12 inches without a push block or a hold-down. Keep your fingers away from the cutterhead—use push sticks for ripping on the table saw. Do not joint or plane boards with loose knots or cracks; they can explode. Always disconnect power before changing blades or adjusting the cutterhead. For the planer, never look into the infeed opening while the machine is running—kickback can throw a board back at you.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a planer instead of a jointer?
No. A planer makes the second face parallel to the first, but it cannot make a twisted board flat. You need a jointer (or a hand plane, or a planer sled) to create a flat reference face.
What if I don’t have a jointer?
You can flatten a face using a planer sled: place the board on a flat MDF carrier, shim any gaps, and run the whole assembly through the planer. This flattens the top face. Then remove the board, flip it, and plane the other side to thickness. It is slower but works.
Should I rip or crosscut first?
Rip first to reduce width, but crosscut to rough length before jointing if the board is too long for your jointer or planer. For most projects, you can rip to rough width, then joint, then plane, then crosscut to final length—this avoids tear-out on the end grain.
How much stock should I leave for jointing and planing?
Leave at least 1/8 inch on each face and edge for jointing and planing, and 1/4 to 1/2 inch on length for final squaring. More if the board is badly warped or if you are working with rough lumber.
Why does my planer leave snipe?
Snipe is a slight depression at the start or end of the board caused by the outfeed roller pressing down before the board is fully supported. Minimize it by using a planer sled, feeding boards end-to-end, or adjusting the bed rollers. Some planers have a snipe lock that holds the board level.
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