Yes, cashmere is generally worth the higher price for garments you wear directly against the skin, but whether it is “yearn worthy” depends on the specific item, its construction, and how you care for it. The term “yearn worthy” is a play on words—it suggests a yarn so good you’d yearn for it, and for many knitters and buyers, premium cashmere delivers that feeling. However, not all cashmere is equal, and a cheap, loosely spun cashmere sweater can pill and lose shape quickly, making it a poor investment. This article breaks down what makes cashmere valuable, how to judge quality, common problems, and how it compares to other luxury fibers, so you can decide if it deserves a place in your wardrobe or stash.
What Is Cashmere and Why Is It Expensive?
Cashmere is the fine undercoat of the cashmere goat (Capra hircus), primarily raised in Mongolia, China, Iran, Afghanistan, and parts of Central Asia. Each goat produces only about 100–150 grams of usable cashmere per year—roughly the amount needed for one sweater. The fibers are harvested by combing (not shearing) during the spring molt, and then they must be dehaired to remove coarse outer hairs. This labor-intensive process, combined with the limited supply, is why cashmere commands a premium price. The finest cashmere has a diameter of about 14–16 microns, which is thinner than human hair (around 70 microns) and softer than most sheep’s wool (typically 20–30 microns). The word “cashmere” itself derives from the Kashmir region of India/Pakistan, though most commercial cashmere now comes from Inner Mongolia.
How Cashmere Quality Is Graded
Not all cashmere is created equal. Quality is determined by several factors:
- Fiber diameter: Finer fibers (14–16 microns) are softer and more expensive. Coarser cashmere (18–19 microns) is cheaper and can feel prickly.
- Fiber length: Longer fibers (35–45 mm) produce stronger, less pilling yarn. Short fibers (under 30 mm) are often used in lower-quality garments and pill more.
- Ply: Two-ply yarn is twisted from two single strands, making it more durable than single-ply. Many luxury brands use two-ply or even three-ply for sweaters.
- Origin and processing: Cashmere from certain regions (e.g., Inner Mongolia) is prized for fineness, but processing methods—like chemical treatments—can affect softness and durability.
- Dyeing and finishing: High-quality dyeing preserves the fiber’s hand feel; poor dyeing can make it stiff or harsh.
When shopping, look for the micron count (if stated) and the ply. A 100% cashmere label alone doesn’t guarantee quality—a single-ply, loosely knitted sweater may be soft but will likely stretch and pill quickly.
Cashmere vs. Other Luxury Fibers
Cashmere is often compared to other premium animal fibers. Here’s how it stacks up:
- Merino wool: Cheaper, more durable, and more elastic, but coarser and itchier. Merino is better for activewear and hard-wearing knits.
- Lambswool: Soft but less fine than cashmere; it’s a budget-friendly alternative but can be scratchy for sensitive skin.
- Mohair: From Angora goats, mohair is lustrous and strong but can be prickly; it’s often blended with cashmere for sheen.
- Alpaca: Similar softness to cashmere but warmer and less elastic. Alpaca is more durable but can be heavier.
- Vicuna: Rarer and more expensive than cashmere, with an even finer fiber (12–13 microns). It’s a true luxury, but not widely available.
Cashmere’s main advantage is its combination of softness, warmth, and lightness—it’s about eight times warmer than sheep’s wool by weight. However, it’s less durable than wool, so it requires gentler handling.
Common Problems: Pilling, Stretching, and Moths
Three issues plague cashmere owners:
- Pilling: Friction causes short fibers to ball up on the surface. This is normal, especially on the underarms and sides. Use a fabric comb or sweater stone to remove pills gently. Frequent pilling can indicate low-quality yarn.
- Stretching: Cashmere is heavy and can stretch out of shape if hung. Always fold sweaters, never hang them. If a sweater stretches, you can shrink it slightly by washing in warm water and reshaping flat.
- Moth damage: Cashmere is a protein fiber, so moths love it. Store garments in airtight containers with cedar or lavender sachets. Check for holes in spring and fall.
Prevention is key: wash cashmere less often (spot-clean when possible), use a gentle detergent, and dry flat. With proper care, a good cashmere sweater can last decades.
How to Choose a Cashmere Garment or Yarn
Whether you’re buying a ready-made sweater or knitting with cashmere yarn, consider these factors:
- Check the label: Look for “100% cashmere” and, if listed, the micron count and ply. Avoid blends with nylon unless you want durability.
- Feel the fabric: It should feel soft but not overly slippery. A dense knit is more durable than a loose one.
- Examine the seams: In garments, seams should be neat and not pull. In yarn, twist should be even.
- Consider the source: Luxury brands (e.g., Loro Piana, Brunello Cucinelli) are known for high-grade cashmere, but you can find good quality from smaller producers. For yarn, brands like De Rerum Natura and Quince & Co. offer ethical options.
- Set a budget: A high-quality cashmere sweater typically costs $150–$500; yarn can be $20–$50 per skein. If it’s too cheap, it’s likely low-grade or blended.
Remember: a higher price doesn’t always mean better, but extremely low prices usually indicate short fibers or heavy chemical processing.
Cost and Sustainability Considerations
The cost of cashmere reflects its labor-intensive production, but there are environmental and ethical concerns. Overgrazing by cashmere goats in Mongolia has led to desertification, and some producers use harmful chemicals in processing. To make a more responsible choice, look for certifications like the Good Cashmere Standard or the Sustainable Fibre Alliance, which promote animal welfare and land management. Also, consider buying second-hand cashmere—it’s a sustainable way to enjoy the fiber without contributing to new production. If you’re a knitter, you can also unravel old sweaters to reuse the yarn, though this requires patience.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is cashmere worth the money?
For most people, yes, if you buy quality and care for it. A well-made cashmere sweater can last decades and is more comfortable than most wools. However, if you’re on a tight budget, a merino or lambswool sweater might be a better value, as they’re more durable and cheaper.
How do I stop cashmere from pilling?
Pilling is inevitable, but you can minimize it by choosing a tightly spun, two-ply yarn, washing less often, and turning the garment inside out when washing. Use a fabric comb to remove pills—never pull them with your fingers, as that can break the fibers.
Can I machine wash cashmere?
Technically, you can use a delicate cycle with cold water and a wool-specific detergent, but hand washing is safer. Always wash inside out, in a mesh bag if using a machine, and never wring. Dry flat on a towel.
What’s the difference between cashmere and pashmina?
Pashmina is a term for a type of cashmere woven in Kashmir, traditionally from very fine fibers. In modern usage, “pashmina” often refers to a cashmere-silk blend shawl, but it’s not a distinct fiber—it’s still cashmere.
Why does some cashmere itch?
If cashmere itches, it’s likely lower quality with coarser fibers (over 18 microns) or a blend with wool. High-quality cashmere should not itch. If you’re sensitive, look for a micron count of 15 or less.
How should I store cashmere in the summer?
Wash and dry your cashmere, then fold it in a breathable cotton bag or a plastic container with cedar blocks. Add lavender sachets to repel moths. Avoid hanging, as it will stretch.
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